Key takeaways

  • If your laptop is lost or stolen, the data on it is usually worth far more than the hardware, so protecting your data matters most.
  • Turn on full-disk encryption (BitLocker on Windows, FileVault on Mac) so a thief cannot read your files even if they remove the drive.
  • Use a strong password or PIN and set your screen to lock automatically, never rely on a device that wakes straight to your desktop.
  • Back up regularly and enable Find My Device, so you can locate, lock or wipe a missing laptop and still have all your files.
  • Out and about, keep your laptop out of sight, never leave it in a car, and be wary of public Wi-Fi without a VPN.
  • Write down your encryption recovery key and store it somewhere safe and separate, as you can be locked out of your own files without it.

How do you keep your computer safe when you are out and about? The key shift in thinking is this: while a stolen laptop costs money to replace, the personal and financial data on it can cost you far more, so real protection is as much about your data as your hardware. The good news is that a handful of simple, mostly free steps, encryption, a strong password, backups and Find My Device, mean that even if the worst happens, a thief gets a paperweight while your data stays safe. This guide walks you through them.

As a Manchester tech-support company, we help people secure their devices and recover from theft and loss, so here is practical, honest advice you can act on today. Spend twenty minutes setting these up once and you can stop worrying about it.

Why your data matters more than the hardware

It is tempting to think of laptop theft purely as the cost of a new machine, but that is the smaller problem. A modern laptop holds a huge amount of sensitive information: saved passwords, emails, banking and shopping logins, personal documents, photos and more. In the wrong hands, that can lead to fraud and identity theft, which is far more damaging and stressful than losing the device itself.

Your browser quietly remembers logins for dozens of sites, and your email holds the password-reset links for nearly every account you own, so a thief who gets into a logged-in machine does not need to be a hacker. Email is the crown jewels: get into your inbox and a criminal can reset the password on almost everything else. So the goal is twofold: make your device hard to steal, and make your data useless to anyone who does steal it. Get the second part right and a stolen laptop becomes just an inconvenience rather than a disaster. Most of the steps below cost nothing and take minutes to set up. The Information Commissioner's Office, the UK's data protection regulator, recommends encryption precisely because it protects information so effectively when a device is lost or stolen, and the same logic that applies to businesses applies just as well to your own machine.

Encrypt your drive so your data is unreadable

This is the single most important step, and most people have never switched it on. Full-disk encryption scrambles everything on your drive so it can only be read with your password. Without it, a thief can simply remove your hard drive, plug it into another computer, and read all your files, your login password alone does not protect them. With encryption on, your data is unreadable gibberish to anyone who does not have your password.

It is built in and free on modern computers. On Windows, turn on BitLocker or device encryption; on a Mac, turn on FileVault. Both work quietly in the background once enabled, with no day-to-day difference for you. If you do one thing after reading this, make it this. The UK's National Cyber Security Centre also recommends encryption among its top tips for staying secure.

It helps to picture the difference. A password prompt is like a locked front door with the windows left open: anyone willing to take the drive out and read it elsewhere walks straight in. Encryption turns the whole house into a sealed safe, so even with the drive in their hands a thief sees only scrambled data, and the AES standard used by both Windows and Apple cannot realistically be cracked.

How to turn on encryption, step by step

On most recent laptops, encryption is straightforward:

  • Windows 11 and 10: Open Settings, go to Privacy and security, then Device encryption, and switch it on. On a Pro, Enterprise or Education edition you can instead search for BitLocker and choose Manage BitLocker. Device encryption is the version available on Windows Home, so most home users are covered even without the full BitLocker tools.
  • Mac: Open System Settings, go to Privacy and Security, then FileVault, and turn it on. Macs with Apple silicon or the older T2 chip already encrypt the drive at the hardware level, but turning on FileVault is what ties that encryption to your login password, so it is still worth enabling.

One thing you must not skip is the recovery key. When you turn encryption on, the computer generates a long backup key that can unlock the drive if you ever forget your password. Save it somewhere safe and separate from the laptop, in a password manager, printed and kept at home, or stored in your Microsoft or Apple account. Apple's own guidance is blunt: if you forget both your login password and your recovery key, your files are gone for good. We have seen people locked out of their own data this way, so treat the recovery key with the same care as a spare house key.

Lock it down: strong password and auto-lock

Encryption relies on a good password, so the two go hand in hand. Make sure your computer requires a strong password or PIN to log in, never leave it set to boot straight to the desktop, and set the screen to lock automatically after a few minutes of inactivity, plus get into the habit of locking it yourself whenever you step away (Windows key + L on a PC, or Control + Command + Q on a Mac).

This stops an opportunist who grabs your laptop while it is open, or simply glances at it in a cafe. Combine it with a password manager for your online accounts, as covered in our guide on working more securely, so that even if someone does get in, your saved logins are not an open door to everything else.

For the login password itself, the NCSC suggests building a memorable but strong passphrase from three random words rather than a short, predictable one, and avoiding anything a thief could guess from your social media. Where your laptop supports it, fingerprint or face sign-in (Windows Hello or Touch ID) is both quicker and harder to shoulder-surf, because there is no password on screen to watch. Two more free wins: turn on two-step verification for email and banking so a stolen password alone is not enough, and keep Windows, macOS and your apps updated, because those updates close the holes criminals rely on.

Back up, so losing the device isn't losing your data

A laptop tucked into a bag on a cafe table
Out and about, keep your laptop out of sight and your data protected, so a theft costs you a device, not your files.

If your laptop is stolen or lost, a recent backup is what turns catastrophe into mild annoyance. With your files safely copied elsewhere, you can simply restore everything to a new machine and carry on, rather than losing years of photos, documents and work forever.

Set up automatic backups so you do not have to remember, ideally following the simple rule of keeping more than one copy in more than one place, including off-site, which usually means the cloud. Our guide on why backing up your data is critical explains exactly how, and our comparison of cloud versus external storage helps you choose. A backup protects you from far more than theft, hardware failure, ransomware and accidental deletion too.

A reliable approach is the 3-2-1 rule: keep three copies of anything important, on two different types of storage, with one kept off-site. In practice that might be the working copy on your laptop, an automatic copy to an external drive at home (Windows File History or Apple's Time Machine both do this for free), and a third copy in cloud storage. The off-site copy is the one that saves you if your home is burgled or flooded as well as if your laptop goes missing. Automatic backups remove human error, so set them up once, then check every month or so that they are running and that you can actually open a file from the backup. If your only copy of something precious has already gone, our data recovery service can often help, and our backup setup service can get the whole thing running for you.

Turn on Find My Device

Both Windows and Mac have built-in tracking that helps if your laptop goes missing. Windows has "Find my device" and Apple has "Find My", and once enabled, you can sign in from another device to see your laptop's location on a map, lock it remotely, or, as a last resort, erase it remotely so your data cannot be accessed.

Switch this on now, before you need it, as it cannot be enabled after the device is gone. It will not guarantee you get the laptop back, but combined with encryption and backups it gives you real control: you can wipe the device remotely knowing your data is encrypted anyway and safely backed up elsewhere.

To set it up on Windows, sign in with a Microsoft account, open Settings, go to Privacy and security, then Find my device, and turn it on (you also need location services enabled). If the laptop later goes missing, sign in at account.microsoft.com, open your devices, and use Find and lock a lost Windows device to see it on a map and lock it remotely. On a Mac, open System Settings, tap your name, go to iCloud, and switch on Find My Mac; if it disappears you can go to icloud.com/find to locate, lock or erase it, and Apple's Activation Lock then stops anyone else wiping and reusing it without your Apple Account details, which makes a stolen Mac far less worth stealing.

One note of realism: tracking only works while the device is switched on and online, and you should never try to recover a stolen laptop yourself by turning up at the location on the map. Pass any location information to the police and let them deal with it. The real value of Find My Device is the remote lock and remote wipe, which protect your data the moment you realise the laptop is gone.

Smart habits when you're out and about

Alongside the digital protections, a few common-sense habits dramatically cut the risk of theft in the first place:

  • Keep it out of sight. Do not leave your laptop unattended on a cafe or library table, even briefly, and carry it in an ordinary bag rather than an obvious laptop case.
  • Never leave it in a car. A laptop on a seat or even in the boot is a magnet for thieves; take it with you.
  • Be careful on public Wi-Fi. Free Wi-Fi in cafes and airports can be insecure, so avoid logging into sensitive accounts, or use a reputable VPN to encrypt your connection.
  • Watch for shoulder-surfing. In busy public places, be aware of who can see your screen when you type passwords or view sensitive information.
  • Consider a physical lock. For longer stays in one spot, a Kensington-style cable lock tethers your laptop to a desk and deters a grab-and-go thief.

Most laptop theft in public is opportunistic rather than planned. A thief looks for the easy win: the bag over the back of a chair, the laptop on the table while you nip to the counter. Sit with your back to a wall where you can see the room, loop a bag strap around your leg or chair rather than draping it loose, and keep the machine closed and packed away when you are not using it. In a busy Manchester coffee shop or on the tram, those small habits are what separate a near-miss from a bad day.

Public Wi-Fi: what is actually risky in 2026

Public Wi-Fi has a fearsome reputation, and it is worth being clear about what is and is not a real risk today. The good news is that the vast majority of websites and apps now use HTTPS encryption, so the old image of a hacker reading your banking password out of thin air is largely a thing of the past. Your connection to most sites is already scrambled between your device and the website.

What remains a genuine concern is more subtle. Criminals can set up a fake hotspot (often called an "evil twin") with a friendly name like "Free Airport WiFi" to lure you in, then push you towards fake login pages designed to harvest your details. Open networks also leak metadata about who you are talking to, and they can serve phishing pages through the captive portal you see when you first connect. The threat in 2026 is less about someone reading your traffic and more about being tricked into connecting somewhere malicious in the first place.

Sensible precautions handle all of this:

  • Stick to known networks. Ask staff for the exact network name rather than guessing, and be suspicious of open networks with generic names.
  • Use a reputable VPN for anything sensitive. A VPN wraps all of your traffic in an extra encrypted tunnel, so even on a dodgy network there is nothing useful to intercept, and it hides which sites you visit.
  • Prefer mobile data. For online banking or anything truly sensitive, your phone's 4G or 5G connection, or tethering your laptop to it, is generally safer than any open Wi-Fi.
  • Turn off file sharing and choose the "Public" network profile on Windows so your laptop is not discoverable to others on the same network.
  • Forget the network when you leave, so your laptop does not silently reconnect to an imposter with the same name next time.

A firewall adds another quiet layer of protection on untrusted networks by blocking unsolicited connections to your machine. Windows and macOS both include one, and you can read more in our guide to the best free firewalls. The same caution applies to public computers and shared chargers: never log in to anything important on a machine you do not control.

Physical anti-theft: bags, locks and where thieves strike

Digital protection keeps your data safe, but a little physical thought keeps the device itself in your hands. The biggest single rule bears repeating: never leave a laptop in a car, not on the seat, not in the footwell, and not even in the boot. Thieves watch car parks for people stowing bags, and a window is cheap to replace next to what is inside. If you must drive with a laptop, take it with you when you park.

A few inexpensive measures pay for themselves the first time they save you:

  • A plain, padded backpack rather than a branded laptop sleeve draws far less attention. The aim is to look like you are carrying gym kit, not a thousand pounds of electronics.
  • A Kensington-style cable lock threads through a slot on the side of most laptops and loops around a fixed object. It will not stop a determined thief with cutters, but it defeats the grab-and-go opportunist, which covers most real-world thefts.
  • A privacy screen filter narrows the viewing angle so anyone beside you on the train sees only a dark screen, dealing with shoulder-surfing at the same time.
  • An anti-theft bag with lockable zips is worth considering if you spend a lot of time in crowds or on public transport.

Make a note of your laptop's make, model and serial number, and take a photo of it. You can usually find the serial on the underside or in the system information screen, and our short guide to finding your laptop model number shows you where to look. Recording it now means you can give the police an accurate description later, and it helps prove ownership if the machine is recovered.

Travelling with your laptop

Holidays and business trips put your laptop through more risk in a few days than it usually sees in months, so a little extra care goes a long way. The single most important travel rule is to keep your laptop in your hand luggage, never in checked baggage. Checked bags are handled out of your sight, are far more likely to be lost or rifled through, and almost no insurance policy will pay out for electronics damaged or stolen from the hold.

A few more travel habits are worth adopting:

  • Back up before you go. Make sure a fresh backup exists at home or in the cloud before you leave, so a theft abroad costs you nothing but the hardware.
  • Photograph your receipt and serial number. Many travel and gadget insurers ask for proof of purchase and the serial number before they pay out, so have them saved somewhere other than the laptop itself.
  • Use hotel safes sensibly. A room safe is better than leaving a laptop on the bed, though for anything truly valuable a reception safe is sturdier.
  • Be extra alert in airports and stations. Security queues, where you are distracted loading trays, are a classic spot for laptops to vanish, so keep an eye on yours and collect it first.
  • Mind public charging points. Use your own plug and cable in a wall socket rather than an unknown USB port, and consider whether you need to carry sensitive files on the trip at all.

If you are travelling for work, the same principles apply but the stakes are higher because company and client data may be involved. Our guidance on business computer support covers securing devices that leave the office, and we are happy to set staff laptops up properly before a trip.

Does your insurance actually cover it?

Many people assume they are covered and only find out otherwise after a theft, so it is worth checking the detail before you need it. There are three common ways a laptop might be insured, and each has catches.

Type of coverWhat it usually coversWatch out for
Home contents insuranceLoss or damage in your home; sometimes theft from a carOften does not cover items away from home unless you add "personal possessions" or "all risks" cover
Personal possessions / all-risks add-onYour gadgets anywhere, often worldwideSingle-item limits may be lower than your laptop's value; check the cap
Travel insurance with gadget coverLoss, theft or damage while you are awayOften pays depreciated value, not replacement cost; excludes checked luggage

Two points trip people up most often. First, UK comparison and consumer guides note that many gadget policies pay out the depreciated value of an older device rather than what a new one costs, so a laptop bought a couple of years ago may be worth a good deal less than you paid. Second, single-item limits on standard travel and home policies can be lower than the price of a modern laptop, which is why a dedicated gadget add-on with a higher per-item limit may be needed if your machine is expensive. Read the wording, note the excess you would pay on a claim, and keep your proof of purchase. Whatever you do, do not let an insurance payout be your only plan: insurance replaces the hardware eventually, but only a backup brings your data straight back.

Your before-you-leave security checklist

Pulling it all together, here is a simple checklist to run through once. Set these up at home and you are protected every time you head out:

  • Full-disk encryption turned on (BitLocker or device encryption on Windows, FileVault on Mac).
  • Encryption recovery key saved somewhere safe and separate from the laptop.
  • A strong login password or PIN, with fingerprint or face sign-in if available.
  • Screen set to lock automatically, and you lock it whenever you step away.
  • Two-step verification switched on for email and banking.
  • Automatic backups running, with at least one copy off-site in the cloud, and tested recently.
  • Find My Device enabled on Windows or Find My Mac on Apple.
  • Windows, macOS and your apps fully up to date.
  • A reputable VPN installed for public Wi-Fi, and a plan to use mobile data for anything sensitive.
  • Make, model and serial number noted and photographed, and your insurance checked.

What to do if your laptop is lost or stolen

If the worst happens, act quickly and in this order:

  • Use Find My Device to locate it and, if you cannot safely recover it, lock or remotely wipe it.
  • Change your important passwords straight away, especially email, banking and anything with saved logins on the device.
  • Report it to the police for a crime reference number, which you will need for insurance, and report any resulting fraud to Report Fraud (the UK's national fraud reporting service) at reportfraud.police.uk.
  • Tell your bank if any financial details were stored or accessible, so they can watch for fraud.
  • Restore from your backup onto a replacement machine and get back to normal.

A little more detail helps in the heat of the moment. If a theft is happening or has just happened, call 999; otherwise report the crime on 101 or online and make sure you get the crime reference number, as your insurer will ask for it. For fraud, the UK's national reporting service can be reached online at reportfraud.police.uk or by phone on 0300 123 2040 (Monday to Friday, 8am to 8pm). When you change passwords, start with your email, because it controls password resets for everything else, and turn on two-step verification if you had not already. If you are worried about identity fraud, Cifas offers a Protective Registration service (currently around £25 for two years) that asks lenders to carry out extra checks before granting credit in your name. Our guide on what to do if your email is hacked is a useful next read if you think an account has already been accessed.

If you had encryption, backups and Find My Device set up beforehand, this is a manageable inconvenience rather than a crisis, which is exactly why the few minutes of preparation are so worthwhile. Work calmly through the list, keep a note of every reference number you are given, and remember that with your data encrypted and backed up, the thief has gained nothing of value and you have lost nothing you cannot get back.

How Manchester PC can help

If you want help setting up encryption, backups, Find My Device and proper passwords, or securing a laptop for travelling or home working, we can help. We will get your protection properly configured, advise on the right backup setup, and, if you have had a device stolen, help you secure your accounts and get a replacement up and running from your backup.

We cover Manchester and the surrounding areas with free local collection and return and honest, jargon-free advice. For a security setup or any computer repair, get a free, no-obligation quote or call us on 0161 820 1992.